Is there any way to tell if a product is counterfeit before buying it online?

Thanks to my failed purchase, I tried several counterfeit authentication apps, which made me question whether we're really that into authenticity.

The first time I encountered something counterfeit was years ago when I was an avid user of Vinted, a popular online marketplace for second-hand goods (I still am). I was looking at what was supposed to be a Valentino bag, but knowing how expensive those are and seeing that it was under €100, I immediately wrote to the user asking for proof that it was a legit handbag. I was torn between not wanting to miss a good deal and not wanting to carry a fake.

Hours later, the handbag was gone, leading me to believe it was a counterfeit product that either the user or the platform deleted.

Over the years, I have learned a trick or two to dodge situations like these, but the counterfeit goods industry has also become more advanced.

It's been reported that by 2030, the global trade in counterfeit goods could reach almost two trillion dollars.

Could numbers like these indicate that more people are willing to buy counterfeit items? Or did they become so "good" that buyers can't spot the fake through the naked eye?

Counterfeit detection apps

While my shopaholic days are way behind me, I recently decided to "invest" in a simple white shirt. I wanted something that could last me at least a few years, be made from high-quality materials, and have a classic look – nothing too special.

Like many people today, I find it way more convenient to order things online. Over the years, I've become so used to it that I rarely have to return things that I buy online.

I stumbled upon a Ralph Lauren shirt that was being sold at a discount at About You, a well-known German retailer.

Once it arrived, I immediately wanted to check if the purchase I made was actually from the designer, as the item's material quality seemed suspicious. I just didn't want to believe that a shirt priced at €170 could be made from a thin see-through fabric.

Even though labels like Ralph Lauren aren't considered "luxury fashion," the sad reality is that now anything can be a counterfeit.

I knew that there were apps that could detect counterfeit goods, but how good were they? Can they also tell me if what I bought is legit, even if it's not a luxury item?

I downloaded five apps: HiddenTagGlobal, LetsVeriFy, CheckIfReal, Legit App, and Fakespot. I soon realized that none of them would help me, as half of them didn't work, and the rest focused only on luxury items.

This is when I remembered that while attending this year's Consumer Electronics Show (CES) in Las Vegas, I met the representatives of XMBauble, a French company developing an application that can recognize an item's authenticity.

During the show, I was presented with an app that could tell if an item, like a handbag, is real or fake by taking a picture of its material.

I soon learned that the application was still being developed, but that didn't stop me from contacting the company's CEO, Steredenn Hudson-Offret, who explained that the app is "only a part of [...] solution that aims at the manufacturing industry called XMindustry. It offers a box that will be implemented within factories to provide a biometric ID to each object directly on the production line. In parallel, we are developing the checkbox, which will be available in retail stores to check the authenticity of the equipped objects."

Hudson-Offret shared that the app should be finished in 2026. In the meantime, XMBauble aims to create a secure way to authenticate objects by working with manufacturers and retailers.

Anything can be a fake

When it comes to fake products, it's no longer just famous Hermes Birkin and other high-end brands that are being ripped off. When I was researching XMBauble, one of the things that caught my attention was that the company offers wine inspection.

Hudson-Offret shared that they had already tested its detection system with bottles of wine, which could help to avoid fake wine trafficking.

"Everything can be and is counterfeited nowadays. While luxury items certainly are the preferred target of counterfeiters – given their high cost and signaling value, everything is counterfeited, from electronics to airplane or automobile parts, from pharmaceuticals to everyday fashion," explains Dr. Ludovica Cesareo, an expert in the counterfeit luxury market.

Every year, the Office of the United States Trade Representative (USTR) develops the Notorious Markets List (NML), which contains and reviews physical and online markets where counterfeiting occurs.

The review also focuses on one market, known as the Issue Focus section. In 2024, NML examined illicit online pharmacies and the risks of counterfeit medicines.

While we often think that fabricated items include expensive handbags, shoes, jewelry, or makeup, "drugstore toothpaste is counterfeited too," notes Rania Sedhom, the founder and managing partner at Sedhom Law Group.

Do people still care what they buy?

While I was trying to find out if my shirt was real or not (a QR code that I found on its label proved it to be legit, even though one of the apps suggested that I should be "careful while purchasing the product"), I found myself quite frustrated.

It brought me back to the days when I would see countless online discussions about people getting scammed on Vinted and unable to get their money back, especially if it was something that, even on the second-hand platform, had cost a thousand or more euros.

So, at one point, struggling to scan the correct label, looking at zoomed-in pictures of the model with the same shirt, a thought crossed my mind: if I liked the garment, should I care if it's real or not?

If anything could be a fake, how many people actually (still) care about the things that they buy being original?

"I believe that it depends on the level of investment that you make when you buy an object. In luxury, people tend to buy genuine products to keep them and let them gain value. The increasing trend of second-hand luxury items is also entirely aligned with our vision of authentication," shared the creator of XMBauble.

Cesareo also agreed that the answer often depends on a person's priorities: Is their purchase a status symbol, or do they "prioritize functionality or style over authenticity?" There's also a "growing awareness around the environmental and ethical impacts of counterfeit goods – some people do care about where their products come from and whether they support genuine businesses."

Mad and deceived Vinted user rants online also made me realize that maybe not all is lost. But how do you know when something is a good deal and when it's best to look away?

How to not get scammed

Experts on counterfeit goods shared some tips that can help avoid buying counterfeit goods.

One way is to buy from trusted sources. This made me stop doubting my purchase, even though I wasn't satisfied with it. If you're buying from second-hand stores, find out its return policy.

"If the store guarantees authenticity and permits returns if someone can prove it is counterfeit, a consumer can take the item [...] to the brand and ask for it to be cleaned, repaired, etc. If the item is not genuine, the brand will not agree to service the item," explained Sedhom.

Before buying an item, especially if it's a luxury good, it's worth researching its materials, stitching, packaging, etc., to determine whether the one you've received is original.

While I didn't find the authentication apps that I used to be that helpful in my case, the experts say that they can be a good indicator of a fake. According to Cesareo, apps like Entrupy, Real Authentication, and StockX have systems that can tell if an item is real.

However, it's best to stay cautious. "If the app authenticates a product by checking the serial number, you can get a false positive, as many fake products have authentic serial numbers, boxes, and papers. However, the number belongs to the original, and the box and papers are not genuine. Apps that utilize multiple points of comparison are better," explains Sedhom.

Many of us enjoy getting a good deal. But the "good" price shouldn't cloud our judgment, as counterfeit goods are often priced lower than authentic pieces. So, if you're buying something significantly cheaper than it's supposed to be, it's worth checking that item's authenticity.